Bra Fitting Encyclopedia

Bra Anatomy

Every part of a bra has a name and a job. This page names them all, so the fit advice elsewhere in the encyclopedia says exactly which part it means.

The band

The band is the horizontal piece that wraps around your ribcage. It includes the back wings (the side panels that stretch around your torso) and the closure (hooks and eyes). Some bras also have a cradle, a fabric panel that holds the cups and wires in place on the front of the band. The band provides most of the bra's support and should carry the weight of your breasts, not the straps.

The cups

The cups are the fabric or molded material that holds each breast. The top edge of the cup is called the neckline or décolleté. The point where the strap attaches to the cup is called the apex. Cups can be seamed (made of multiple fabric panels sewn together) or seamless (molded from a single piece of fabric). Seamed cups generally offer more shaping and support for larger busts, while seamless cups offer a smoother look under clothing.

The gore

The gore is the center piece of the bra that sits between the cups. On a wired bra, the gore should lie flat against your sternum. If the gore lifts away from your chest, the cups are likely too small. On a wireless bra, the gore may not touch the sternum, but it should not float excessively far from it.

The straps

The straps run from the cups over your shoulders to the back band. They provide a smaller share of support and mainly keep the cups positioned. Straps should be adjustable and should not dig into your shoulders or slip off. Most bras have sliders (small adjustable hardware) on the straps for length adjustment.

The underwire

The underwire is a thin metal or plastic wire sewn into the bottom of the cup that separates and supports breast tissue. It should sit exactly at the breast root, where your breast meets your chest wall. The wire should not sit on breast tissue, and there should be no gap between the wire and your ribcage. Not all bras have underwires; wire-free bras rely on the band and fabric structure for support.

The hooks and eyes

The closure system on the back of the bra. Most bras have two or three columns of hooks so you can tighten the band as it stretches over time. Always start on the loosest column when the bra is new.

The channeling

The fabric tunnel that holds the underwire in place inside the cup. If the wire is poking or slipping, the channeling may be damaged or the wrong size for the wire.