Bra Fitting Encyclopedia

Breast Shape and Fit

Two people with the same bra size may find that the same bra fits one and not the other. That is because bra fit depends on more than the numbers. Breast shape, how the tissue sits on the chest, and how firm or soft the tissue is all affect which bras will work.

Projection vs. shallowness

Projection refers to how far the breast projects forward from the chest wall. A projected breast sticks out more, while a shallow breast sits flatter against the chest. A bra designed for shallow breasts may not have enough depth at the apex for a projected breast, causing the cups to feel too small even when the size is technically right. Conversely, a bra designed for projected breasts may have too much depth for a shallow breast, causing gaping or wrinkling at the top of the cup.

If you find that cups always seem too shallow or that your tissue pushes the bra away from your chest wall, you may need bras designed for more projection. If cups always gap at the top, you may need bras designed for shallower shapes.

Fullness distribution

Breasts can be fuller on top, fuller on bottom, or evenly full. This affects which cup styles work.

• Top-full: More tissue sits above the nipple. Cups that cut in at the top may be too low. Styles with more coverage at the top of the cup may work better.
• Bottom-full: More tissue sits below the nipple. Cups may gap at the top, especially in molded or full-cup styles. Styles with less coverage at the top may accommodate this shape better.
• Even fullness: Tissue is distributed fairly evenly. Most cup styles may work, but fit still depends on other shape factors.

Root width

The root is where the breast attaches to the chest wall. A wide root means the breast tissue extends further toward the underarm. A narrow root means the tissue is more centered on the chest. This affects which underwire shapes will be comfortable. A bra with wires that are too narrow for a wide root will sit on tissue at the sides. A bra with wires that are too wide for a narrow root will have empty space at the sides of the cups.

Why this matters

If your calculated size does not seem to work in any bra you try, shape may be the reason. The same cup letter can fit very differently depending on whether the bra is designed for projected or shallow, top-full or bottom-full, wide-rooted or narrow-rooted shapes. This is why comfort, not just the number on the tag, is the ultimate test of fit.